Install all the electronics, wires (including the Rx antenna) and servos for the last time.
Hook up the battery and MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WORKS!
Make foam caps for the Rx and servos,
tape them in place with 2" straping tape. With everything installed You are ready to add the
final straping tape and cover the wing.
Follow the instructions provided with your kit for this step.
NOTE: If you use colored packing tape did you know that it will heat
shrink very nicely??!! Use your heat gun and shrink it up nice and tight. Be very careful not to MELT the wing!
Keep the heat gun moving at all times. Heat shrinking your wing will make it stronger and it will look a lot better!
For the motor tray I used the Zagi 400X tray. I cut the bottom out and cut it off at the point
where the square battery pack ends on the front. Check out the photos.
NOTE: On the Zagi's and even more so on the XR Combat wings the incidence angle of the motor is too high
unless you like the nose to point to the sky when you hit the throttle! I like a little bit of incidence but
the stock 400 tray is too much! I place a 1/8" piece of rubber under the front of the motor, then strap it down.
This reduces the nose up tendency but you might want to keep some of this tendency in for hands off climbing.
For the canopy use the standard (old style) Zagi 400 part. The old style canopy is a lot lower profile than the 400X canopy. I cut it short by a couple inches,
used a heat gun and soldering iron to re-make the nose. This makes it about 2" shorter than the stock one. This is really nice because it will rarely
break on a nose in crash. I HATED buying those canopies and motor trays all the time! This will help a BUNCH!
Well, that's about it, tape the motor tray on, install the battery, power up and fly! To
convert to the glider, just remove the motor tray and canopy, install the smaller Rx battery
(I use a 270 mAh 4 cell flat) cover the battery cutout with a foam cap and tape and go soaring!
NOTES on the conversion:
I chose to leave the ESC (electronic speed control)
in the battery cutout compartment. I then made a power cord adapter that went from the ESC deans connector to the battery.
This works well because you don't have to unbury any wires each time you convert - very clean this way.